Gnocching on heaven's door: Boulud's braised short ribs with homemade potato gnocchi

We fell upon Italy and its food like a two-person swarm of locusts.  After five days in Malta -- the British started leaving in the 1960s, but apparently forgot to take 1960s British food with them -- we were ready to eat.  Malta is a beautiful country with a remarkable history and, for Rob, a deeply personal history too, given that his father was born there.  Nonetheless, after living on pastizzi, the delicious flaky pastry turnovers filled with ricotta or mushy peas, for the better part of a week, we approached Italy with eager appetites.

We arrived in Florence after several days of gluttony in Rome (to read a little about that, click here).  Not knowing a pesce from a pesca made eating well a challenge, but we wandered throughout the city and opened our minds and our stomachs to every tantalizing experience we could find.  I guess it's no surprise then, that we stumbled into an almost-empty restaurant at seven one evening, an unthinkable hour for any self-respecting Italian.  Thanks to the patience and kindness of our remarkable waiter, we eventually ordered a meal using a clumsy mix of broken English and heavily-accented pidgin-Italian.

But, oh, what a meal!  The highlight was a steaming plate of tiny potato dumplings sauced in a rich truffle cream that were like clouds on the tongue.  Our eyes met as I realized I was in gastronomic heaven.  Then I turned away from the waiter, and smiled at Rob.  We started laughing out loud -- it was that good.

Once back in Toronto, we put a lot of effort into recreating those lighter-than-air gnocchi.

We've learned that texture is everything, so flour, which is the enemy of all that is ethereal in the world of gnocchi, must be minimized.  That said, it seems most people go about making gnocchi in precisely the wrong way by boiling their potatoes; after all, a wetter potato requires more flour.  The solution?  Baking, which not only results in lighter gnocchi, it results in gnocchi that taste more strongly of potato. 

Even the best gnocchi are, well, just lumps of potato without a great sauce.  This is where are a great braise makes all the difference.  In a just world, Daniel Boulud's braised short ribs (click here for the recipe, and don't forget to add a parmesan rind to the braising liquid, if possible) would get a post to themselves.  Perhaps one day they will, just not here or now.  Know this: we don't make these short ribs for the gnocchi; no, we make these short ribs on a lazy Saturday afternoon so we can relax and eat a magnificent dinner the following evening.  We like to buy our short ribs at either Rowe Farm Meats in the North St. Lawrence Market or at Whitehouse Meats in the south market. Wherever you buy them, be sure to serve the finished ribs atop some mashed potatoes or, better yet, a delicious root vegetable purée.

To make these ribs takes time and a little effort, and a lot of wine (three bottles, minus a glass for the cook) but the payoff is exceptional, especially long-term.  With tender meat and a sauce as thick and rich as a demi-glace, these short ribs are destined to be shredded and eaten again with gnocchi.  If you have neither the time nor the inclination for gnocchi, you can also serve this sauce on pasta: dried rigatoni and penne are superb, and fresh pappardelle are, to borrow an Italian term, fuori misura, beyond measure.

One bite is enough to rekindle memories of that first plate of gnocchi in Florence.  And I have to admit, I still have a soft spot for Italian waiters.

Rob & Rachel's Potato Gnocchi

When we first started making gnocchi, we used Mario Batali's recipe, which we highly recommend if you prefer boiling your potatoes.  It's important to note that this recipe can very easily be doubled, tripled, or even shrunk.  Making gnocchi takes some work, and frozen gnocchi are excellent, so we normally make several hundred at a time, which we then store in the freezer.

3 kg russet potatoes
600 grams unbleached all purpose flour (approx. 4 cups)
3 large eggs
large pinch of salt
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Pre-heat oven to 205C (400F).

With the tines of a fork, poke several holes in each potato.  Bake in the pre-heated oven for approximately 45 minutes, or until the potato can be easily pierced with a fork.

While the potatoes are still warm, skin them, then pass them through a potato ricer or food mill.

Make a well in the centre of the potatoes and sprinkle 80 percent of the flour (480 grams) over the potatoes and inside the well, then sprinkle with salt and nutmeg.  Break the eggs inside the well. Working from the inside out, use a fork to mix the eggs with the flour and potatoes.

When the egg is mixed in, knead the dough for 3 to 5 minutes until it no longer sticks to your hands or the kneading surface.  If the dough is too sticky, add some of the reserved flour until you have achieved the desired texture.

Break the dough into twelve equal pieces.  Roll out the dough against your fingers (I find this easier than using my palms) into ropes approximately 2 centimetres in diameter.  Cut the rope into 3 centimetre long pieces, and roll each piece against the back of a fork such that the tines form indentations in the gnocchi.

To cook, drop in salted, boiling water until gnocchi float to the top.  Sauce with your condiment of choice.

Alternatively, lay the gnocchi out on cookie sheets in a single layer, then put in the freezer.  When frozen, transfer to an airtight freezer bag and store until ready to use.

Comments

[sher]

Yummmmm! I love potato gnocchi. I've been meaning to make some myself. Yours looks fabulous. Great blog, by the way.

[Tania]

How funny! I picked up "The Cafe Boulud Cookbook" just last month and was all set to makes this exact short ribs recipe ... until work got in the way. I've yet to try them, but it's so nice to know the recipe turns out so scrumptiously! I love the idea of serving the ribs with gnocchi. Lovely!

[Aoife]

That looks amazing. Are the gnocchi in the picture fried, or do they get that golden brown just from boiling?

[Peter]

Nice Job

I'm going to try your method, whenever I've tried to make Gnocchi they always turn like little lead balls.
The last time I had good gnocchi was at a restaurant in the beach (in Toronto) called La spagia.

And I've got to agree with you when it comes to food in Italy. I was there with my wife and kids last summer and boy was it good!
I've since come back and sharpened my espresso making skills and I'm going to try growing tomatoes as good as I had in Italy.

[Bea at La Tartine Gourmande]

this is SO funny. As I am reading, I am cooking my sauce for my batch of gnocchi made this pm. Check this out. Freaky, eh?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28757974@N00/127068745/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28757974@N00/127068747/

My recipe uses mushrooms and I can smell the wine reducing now! I wish I had come here before to try yours! I will have to make more!!

[Bron]

This IS freaky indeed Bea!!!
Do you think we could all be sending messages to each other telepathically unawares?!
I also had gnocchi planned for this evening, however I was going to boil my potatoes. I shall try your baked method instead now.
The braised ribs sound gorgeous too!

[Bea at La Tartine Gourmande]

So now it is done, I had to show you

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28757974@N00/127196437/

;-)

[MM]

Have not made gnocchi for ages only because I love it so much I end up eating too much and spending weeks trying to work it off!

You are just evil.

[rob]

sher, thank you for the praise. I hope you take the time in the near future to satisfy your craving.

Tania, the short ribs really are fantastic, especially with the short ribs from Rowe Farm Meats. Be forewarned about Boulud's recipe: you need a very large pot. So large, in fact, that I just make the entire dish on the stovetop.

Aoife, nope, no frying or browning. That colour comes from the short rib sauce, which stains the gnocchi in the pan.

Peter, if it helps, the first couple of times I made gnocchi it was an unmitigated disaster. Mine weren't heavy, they just disintegrated into goo when I put them in boiling water. I've never tried La Spiaggia, but I've also heard that the gnocchi at Terroni's are homemade and excellent.

It's also very pleasing to find a kindred spirit who's fallen head over heels for Italian food like we have.

Bea and Bron, that is one hell of a coincidence. First off, Bea, your photos look fantastic and your recipe sounds delicious -- gnocchi require a sauce with some body (with the exception of a good pesto, I guess), which makes mushrooms a spectacular pairing.

Bron, please let me know how your gnocchi turn out. What were you going to sauce them with? I think this is the food blogging equivalent of going to work and finding out you're wearing the same outfit as two other people....

[Bron]

Weehehe my baked potatoes are cooling now, I am simmering a simple bolognese style sauce to go with them Rob, with our homekill, we often have a lot of ground/minced meat and sausages to utilize unfortunately, although my littlies love it!
I don't seem to have much luck with flickr, so I can't see your photos Bea :(

[Ivonne]

Rob e Rachel,

Bravissimi! Siete forti nella cucina!

I am a huge supporter of baking your potatoes to make gnocchi. I picked that up from a wonderful book called Trattoria Cooking by Biba Caggiani.

I also love the short rib ragu'. We usually eat our polenta with this sort of ragu' but too eat it with gnocchi is a wonderful idea.

As always, you're writing is first-rate. And you have made me dream of my bella Italia ... sigh!

[Michelle]

Those gnocci look positively heavenly. You two out-do yourselves every time I come and visit your blog! Bravo! And I love hearing your memories from Italy - it's top on our list of places to go! Keep your eyes out for a package in another week and a half or so (why does it take so darn long?! You're not THAT far away!!), so get those hazelnut recipes out...

[vanessa]

that sounds absolutely delicious. like velvet...yum. what a great culinary adventure to have. the braised short ribs sound like a heavenly pairing. beautiful recipe.

my friends and i had a gnocchi party as well—we tried several methods and recipes and did find the baking to have best results.

btw, good to meet you Rachel and Rob!

[Ian]

Well, dang. Here's another amazing recipe I'm going to have to try. Cheers!

[Glen Galea]

great recipe
and a very interesting blog
i have started a new blog recently
follow the url
it revolves around food and eating
in malta
check it out

[Ange]

Well think I'm ready for a piece of heaven too! And by the way I live in Melbourne Australia & we can buy Pastizzi from the supermarket as there is a large (for a small country) Maltese community here so I gre up on the stuff & love it